5 of the Best High Country Descents
Summer is coming to Victoria's High Country - here are are top 5 descents in the alpine playground.
Words and photos: Georgina von Marburg
The Victorian High Country is a sacred place for cyclists of all disciplines. Its natural vert has produced some of the most recognised mountain bike parks in the country, not to mention its endless network of scenic fire roads. The Alpine resorts are particularly unique in their metamorphic nature, as the melting blankets of snow reveal old and new trails each year for the green season.
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If you haven’t visited Alpine Victoria before, the ride choices can be overwhelming. So to assist your stay, we’ve compiled this list of must-ride descents. This list is by no means definitive, as you’ll undoubtedly hear varying favourites from other locals. But this list will point you in the right direction regardless of what bikes you’re riding, or who you’re riding with.
Falls Creek
Trail: Big Fella > Wishing Well > Flowtown (8.4km excluding Aquaduct liaison)
Local Tip: Bring layers.
Total Descent: 507m
Shuttle Cost: $85 from Blue Dirt
Falls Creek is aptly known for their annual winter wonderland, with copious snow coverage and weekly firework displays throughout the season. But once the après nightlife settles and the lifties enter their hangover-induced hibernation, the resort transforms itself into a bike park with 50km of purpose-built mountain bike singletrack, thanks to recent trails added for 2022. The area has hosted the Victorian XCO Championships and Victorian Enduro Series for successive years, in addition to EWS Qualifiers and the gloriously chaotic McKayos Enduro. Suffice to say, Falls has developed an excellent reputation for event management with a smorgasbord of courses to choose from.
READ: Isolation and adventure in the high country
But for those who lack competitive zeal, Falls also provides the perfect summer wind-down. Imagine mild alpine temperatures, a crystalline lake, local beverages – and one of the longest, people-pleasing descents in the region. I say ‘people-pleasing’ because this descent – or connection of descents – gifts everyone with a slice of everything. Whether you’re a seasoned XC rider, a champion of tech, or just enjoy finding your rhythm on 5km of delectably flowy loam – this descent delivers on all fronts.
To best enjoy this ‘top-to-bottom’ adventure, heed the following directions. Your journey will start at the trail named Big Fella – not to be confused with the gigantic Bogong Moth mural of the same name down the road. Big Fella is a narrow, rocky minefield beginning at the end of Summit Road (the shuttle drop-off point). The dirt runs well in the dry, but perilous, greasy ruts can develop in the wet; depending on who you ask, the latter conditions are character-building or wicked fun – or both. There’s a 110% chance of wind gusts at the top, so come physically and mentally prepared; but fear not, as the elevation drops so do the icy blasts. Once you reach the Aqueduct trail at the bottom of Big Fella, turn left and follow this mellow path to the start of Wishing Well.
READ: Falls Creek huts ride
Wishing Well is a maze of natural line choices and provides plenty of speed when masterfully connected. You’ll then be ejected onto a short segment of fire-road before dropping into the renowned Flowtown. Like any good descent, Flowtown is arduous to race but blissful to ride. There are several false flats which provide ample opportunity to embrace the scenery and high-five your squad after all the pumping and jumping. The rollercoaster finishes at Howman’s Gap, where your pre-booked Blue Dirt shuttle will return you to the Village Bike Café for a homemade pie or Buddha Bowl before heading out for Round 2.
Mount Beauty (Big Hill MTB Park)
Local Tip: Ride it multiple times.
Total Descent: 222m (1.5km)
Shuttle Cost: Self-shuttle
Big Hill MTB Park in Mount Beauty is historic, to say the least. It shouldn’t be regarded as a stopover en route to Falls Creek because in actuality, Falls Creek is the stopover from Big Hill. This 50km web of trails is as old as mountain biking itself and remains the spiritual home of many downhill and cross-country national championships.
READ: Alpine Foothills – all about Mt Beauty
The town of Mount Beauty, nestled at the base of the majestic Mount Bogong, has reared numerous cross-country, downhill, and enduro legends (Chris Panozzo, Ben Mcilroy, and the van der Ploeg clan to name a few). Only the fiercest racers are forged in the ruts and jank of Big Hill, and each year the local club (Team Mount Beauty) devises some of the toughest courses on the calendar.
Big Hill doesn’t wield the same tourism clout as other destinations in the region, but the reason for this hardly negative. The park has no sweeping, machined flow trails with photogenic berms and perfectly calculated jump landings; instead you’ll find a labyrinth of hand-cut tracks, each with their own distinctive flavour and backstory. As Paul van der Ploeg puts it, Big Hill doesn’t produce “white bread” trails – they produce “artisnal sourdough” trails. You must be a competent mountain biker to ride here, ready to embrace the steep climbs and even steeper descents in all their glory. Unlike many networks nowadays which receive multi-million dollar grants and meticulous mapping, the trails at Big Hill have emerged organically over time thanks to curious and passionate volunteers. However, because this process lacks any grand plan, it can be exceptionally difficult to navigate the park. So ask a friendly local for directions, or embrace the opportunity to be lost in singletrack for a day.
There are longer descents at Big Hill, but we believe Darkside perfectly encapsulates the tight corners and natural features the park is known for. The simplest route to Darkside is via Big Hill Road, a gravel road also used for self-shuttling; alternatively, take the Big Easy Up singletrack (amongst several others) to reach the trail head. There’s no warming up on Darkside – it immediately throws you down awkward, mossy rocks which spit you onto a series of jarring huck-to-flats. The remainder of the trail is a long series of log-drops into unsupported corners flanked by trees that leave little margin for error. It’s a tedious and highly technical experience that may frustrate and bewilder you on the first try. But don’t quit after one run; piecing together the Darkside puzzle is a truly satisfying experience, and you’ll be a better rider for it.
Dinner Plain
Local Tip: Switch off and enjoy.
Total Descent: 82m
Shuttle Cost: N/A
Dinner Plain is the anomaly of the High Country. It’s relatively flat, and its primary purpose in winter is off-mountain accommodation to its older sibling, Mount Hotham. But during summer, it somehow crams 9 descents into a small backyard strewn with snow gums and wattles. These are all beginner friendly trails, and the perfect place for kids – and adults – to gain confidence these summer holidays.
Unlike most alpine villages, Dinner Plain is not built on National Park. It can be viewed as a regular suburb, meaning your beloved fluffy children are permitted in the resort. Situated between Bright and Omeo on the awe-inspiring Great Alpine Road, pet-friendly accommodation is available year-round and is particularly good value in the warmer months. Pubs and restaurants abound, and cafes such as The Hub transform into gin and whiskey bars in the evening. But as a first-time visitor to Dinner Plain, the first thing you’ll appreciate is the peace and quiet. While the valley towns and gravity parks will be bustling with lockdown-weary tourists this summer, Dinner Plain provides a secluded and down-tempo environment in which to enjoy nature.
After a 2 minute ride through town, the aptly named Sir Jax Pump A Lot begins from the North Trailhead. It’s one of the faster running trails at Dinner Plain, offering plenty of opportunities to find rhythm through berms and tables. While there’s a handful of different line options, no features will catch you off-guard. On the first ride, Sir Jax gives you that home-town confidence to relax and switch-off while snaking through the dense, alpine bush.
Because all trails are connected by a 1.2km gentle climb, you’ll definitely be itching to explore more. For this reason, the Jabber Wookie trail deserves an honorable mention. Slightly more technical than Sir Jax, it offers another level of progression with several rocky A-lines. Again, a speedy climb will carry you back to either the North or South Trailhead, where you can continue your tranquil day of stress-free descents.
Mount Buller
Trail: Pinnacle Track to Carter’s Road
Local Tip: Embrace the journey.
Total Descent: 687m (8km)
Shuttle Cost: $30 from Blue Dirt
In 2014, Mount Buller opened the Epic Trail, boasting nearly 40km of singletrack, 1245m of ascending, and 2187m of descending. The term ‘Epic’ is no superlative here; it’s an official badge bestowed by the IMBA (International Mountain Bike Association), and Buller’s trail was the first in the Southern Hemisphere to receive it.
The entire route could be considered a descent, as there’s nearly 1000m more descending than climbing. But the final 10km is the jewel in the crown, a seemingly endless spiral of machined track through the alpine foliage. It’s Derby-esque in its structure and feel, probably because it too was built by the revered World Trail team.
Unable to shuttle this 10km separately from the rest of the Epic Trail, riders must earn their turn; but you’re earning it via one of the grandest and most picturesque trails in the country – hardly a compromise. This trail will suit any bike with the right attitude – myself, Shannon Rademaker (All Terrain Cycles & Gravity Oz Coaching), and Dave “Danger” McCoombe (Buller Resort Management) were all aboard 170-180mm travel rigs. XC whippets will embrace the climbs through this half-marathon, while enduro riders will appreciate a day-long adventure with a fast finish. At the end of the Epic trail, a pre-booked Blue Dirt shuttle will return all riders to the resort.
It’s common practice for alpine resorts such as Buller to transform themselves into mountain bike networks during summer. However, most visitors don’t realise the same range of winter accommodation and dining options are available throughout summer. Places such as Mt Buller Chalet Hotel and ABOM Bistro offer bike-friendly and professional hospitality at affordable rates. The convenience of staying on-mountain cannot be overstated, with trailheads and spectacular scenery at your fingertips.
READ: Why you should be riding Mt Buller this summer
Awaking to a breathtaking sunrise from Buller Chalet, the journey begins on the Village doorstep via Gang Gangs. The majority of the Epic goes quickly, as you glide along mild gradients between mountainous views. But there is one section (there’s always one) which will test your skills, strength, and patience: Stonefly. Consider this technical climb as the gates through which riders worthy of the final descent must pass. After this 7km ascent, you will reap the fruits of your labour. The Stirling Trail carries you effortlessly to the midpoint of the Epic and onto the Razorback Trail.
READ: Riding the Delatite River Trail
Once you reach the “Enjoy” sign, heaven awaits. You will drop nearly 700m over 10km from the Pinnacle Track, Scandi-flicking through loamy turns while chasing your crew through the sun-soaked ferns. A and B lines are obviously placed along this flow trail, giving riders the confidence to release the brakes and lean forward into the good times. After such intensive works on the Buller trails from Contour Works, you'd be mad to only ride the Epic trail this season.
Lake Mountain
Local Tip: Bring snacks!
Total Descent: 1600m
Shuttle Cost: $38 by Lake Mountain
Until recently, I had never heard of Lake Mountain, let alone its Cascades Trail. The tiny, XC-ski resort boasts a top-to-bottom descent which traverses the entirety of the mountain, finishing in the regional town of Marysville. Apart from several shorter tracks near the summit, Cascades is Lake Mountain’s main drawcard. Instantly, I was skeptical: why would anyone drive nearly 2 hours from Melbourne or 6 hours from Canberra to ride one, single descent?
Well, now that I’ve awoken with aching calves and fresh blisters on my well-calloused hands, I can confirm this skepticism has been quashed. Lake Mountain is an unmissable summer experience for mountain bikers of any level.
Situated on the edge of the Yarra Valley, Marysville has the typical charm and beauty of all Victorian High Country towns. The resident population is less than 400, but boutique and luxury accommodation options cater to thousands of tourists year-round. The contemporary Peppers Hotel is conveniently located across the road from the shuttle service, providing a buffet breakfast and pool for your all your #recovery needs.
I had the pleasure of riding Cascades with their master trail-builder and DH veteran, Benny Reynolds. The time and care devoted to trail maintenance at Lake Mountain is a gold standard for any MTB park. Even in mid-October the summer trails were pristine, and this seems to be common feedback from riders throughout the season. This is all thanks to the proud team at Lake Mountain, a tight-knit group of diverse ages and qualities.
After loading your bike onto the resort’s shuttle racks, it’s a 20 minute drive to the top of the mountain. Be sure to bring plenty of water and snacks for what will be 3-5 hours of riding. Those who desire an extra challenge can begin on Granite Grind, a technical climb culminating with spectacular summit views; but for those favouring expedience, take the Trigger trail which will bypass the summit via an easy section of singletrack. Either of these routes will take you to the start of Cascades proper.
According to Benny, the best way to mentally tackle Cascades is as 5 separate descents, with small climbs between each. With 1600m elevation loss and 600m gain, the 28km trail should not be considered a shuttle day; like Buller’s Epic Trail, it’s an alpine adventure ride, the majority of which is descending. It will test the strength of XC riders and prove a solid training session for enduro racers. Recreational riders can expect a day-long affair, while kids and families can shuttle half-way and still enjoy some of the best sections.
Each of the 5 descents is incredibly distinct in their scenery and foliage. Surroundings range from milky-white snow gums and mossy boulders, to ash-black dirt and glittering ferns. Even the climbs are picturesque, some of which feel so enchanted you’ll forget your proximity to Melbourne. And the trails themselves? A heavenly mix of tacky berms, rock rolls, and booters. Like all good descents, there are various line options, some which are obvious while others remain hidden until your third or fourth visit. Regardless of your confidence level, the Cascades trail delivers pure, unbridled fun through every turn. You’ll conveniently finish back in Marysville, where the local watering hole – the Duck Inn Pub – overflows with fellow mountain bikers during summer. The Cascades experience deserves an entire weekend, and Victorians would be silly not to frequent this criminally underrated trail. I could dedicate a thousand more words to this place, but it’s best to hit the road and ride it for yourself.
