PLACES THAT ROCK: The Victorian High Country Road Trip

Words: Georgina von Marburg | Photos: Nick Waygood, Amelia Howler

The Victorian High Country – there’s nowhere in Australia like it. In fact, as we learned, the Alpine region accounts for only 0.15% of the continent. Its natural beauty is as precious as it is unique, providing a home for only the hardiest animals and plants. The majority of this landscape is blanketed in snow for at least four months each year, making the ‘green season’ window even more special. Riding through this area is about as good as mountain biking gets, and road tripping is the only way to do it. 

Here at AMB, we’ve done a few of these road trips before. Last year we explored Western Australia, and before that the Snowy Mountains region of New South Wales. This year we’re showing you some of the best places to ride in Victoria's alpine region, one of which is my current home. Victoria's High Country is a place better told in imagery than words, but the experience is best on the ground. I grew up in Albury and then lived in Sydney and Canberra across ten years, all the while frequenting Victoria's High Country for holidays. In 2021, I finally surrendered to the call the mountains and made Bright my home. It’s a spectacular place with epic views around every corner and atop every trailhead. 

During summer at the Victorian alpine resorts, you won’t find huge queues, overflowing carparks, or wallet-draining accommodation. While there’s a time and place for raucous energy and loud atmospheres, that's not what an escape to the high country is about. Rather, places like Falls Creek or Mount Buller offer respite from the crowds and rat race. They provide quiet solitude, making you feel small in a way that only big mountains can. Their trails are some of the highest quality and yet the most remote feeling of any in the country; they’re perfectly manicured by renowned trail builders, and as we found out, are only set to multiply. 

So what’s the best way to take it all in? There’s so much to be said for the timeless tradition of road tripping. Your car carries everything you need for a good time – including bikes. Minimal luggage is required if hopping between accommodation providers, with hot showers and warm meals awaiting you at the end of each day. Driving your own car means you can take the journey at your pace, stopping at each look-out and friendly pub. You could do a day trip to one location, or spend a month ticking off every trail. But here at AMB, we’ve collated the ultimate Victorian High Country road trip; it takes about a week, and encompasses the best the region has to offer for two-wheeled tourists. Use it as a guide, or just as some inspiration for a trip of your own.

Falls Creek

We begin our road trip in Falls Creek, one of Australia’s few true alpine riding destinations. Australia’s alpine region accounts for less than 0.15% of the continent, so we’re exceptionally lucky to have such a high-quality network of trails sprawling across it. Falls Creek Resort is located in the heart of it all; it’s a scenic two-hour drive from Albury, and about an hour from the closest town of Mt Beauty. Falls Creek is the perfect place to start any journey through the High Country as it instantly immerses you in all the benefits of alpine life: a temperate climate, swimmable lakes, jaw-dropping views, excellent eats, cosy accommodation, and again – views! 

Falls Creek boasts a 60km mix of cross-country and gravity trails, thanks to an additional 20km that were built for the summer of 2022. Because of its vastness and the additional day-long excursion on the famous Fainter Track, we chose to stay multiple nights. Staying in the resort is necessary if you want to enjoy proximity to the trails – and sunrise and sunset on top of the world. Anywhere you stay in Falls will be a short ride to the Blue Dirt shuttles or nearest trailhead; we chose to stay at Diana Alpine Lodge, one of many mountain bike-friendly options on the mountain. Their hospitality is hard to beat – as is the food.

Arriving in the morning, we went straight to the Blue Dirt Village Bike Café where we were greeted by hot coffee and shelter from the falling clouds. During summer, you will typically experience blue bird days up here, but – by definition – the mountains present unpredictable weather; it’s part of the magic of alpine living, and the only way to greet it is with wise layering choices. I'd packed a 100% Hydromatic waterproof jacket which was a worthy guard against the elements, providing a lightweight but fully waterproof layer. For any ride in the high country, a waterproof jacket is a must. It's an incredibly beautiful area, but an alpine environment can see sudden and extreme changes in weather – it's always worth packing some extra gear to be ready for changes.

READ: What to pack for a big day of mountain biking

Whether you catch the shuttles or ride to the top, the trails at Falls Creek are superb by any discipline’s standard. Because of their length and variety, these trails have hosted multiple cross-country and enduro races, from the state level to Enduro World Series (EWS) Qualifiers. While they all vary in technicality and difficulty, all the trails contain the classic alpine boulders and dark loam the region is known for. From the sweeping berms of Flowtown to the raw jank of Big Fella, these trails will cater to any rider or ability. 

Dropping into a popular favourite, Big Fella, we immediately appreciated what it means to ride in true alpine conditions. The shoulder-season cloud cover gave way to unforgettable views over neighbouring mountains and valleys. After taking in the sights, we zipped through a few tacky berms before reaching the fast and technical rock gardens; the variety of features and unique terrain across this trail is the perfect example of what makes big mountain riding so special. 

Out of bounds

The trails in and around the resort will keep you occupied for several days, but yet another experience awaits the more adventurous riders: the Fainter Track. This 40km journey is a back-country adventurer's dream, delivering breathtaking views from remote locations, some of which are only accessible by bike or foot. It’s a point-to-point experience taking riders from Falls Creek all the way down to Big Hill Mountain Bike Park in Mount Beauty. The track begins from the resort with just over 800m of climbing on singletrack and fire-road, but an indulgent 2000m descent awaits riders in the second half.

To bring about this reward more swiftly, All Terrain Cycles in Bright provided us with a couple Specialized Levo SLswas training for the EWS and he did end up performing very well in the series. So in hindsight, we can tell Lachie it was worth it. 

The new trails at Falls Creek

The $2.6 million project began way back in 2014 and received partial funding from Regional Development Victoria. While Falls Creek already had 40km of mountain bike specific trails before the recent build, most of the Falls Creek network could be shuttled in a day. “We felt we needed to have a more expansive network than that,” explained Callum. “It’s good that people come up and go shuttling – but it’s better if they stay for a weekend. The sweet spot for that is around 80km of track.” 

There are now more gravity trails, including the incredible Skyline descent from Frying Pan Spur to Howmans Gap. It's over 4km of intermediate descent.

“Another thing we’re looking at is how to get an around-the-lake trail, given that it’s partially in the National Park. We’re looking at unique solutions to that, around the high-water mark on the lake where we can build stuff without impacting vegetation.” This and the rest of the Southern side are still in the planning stage and pending ecological assessments over the coming years before shovels can hit the dirt. 

But what really pricked our ears was the promise of a UCI approved downhill track. “We were approached by Crankworx 3 or 4 years ago when they were looking at venue opportunities… and they did come over to us and were pretty impressed. The Village Bowl is like a natural amphitheatre and we pitched that as an event hub.” 

With its world-class scenery and pre-existing infrastructure, Falls Creek was just lacking a UCI accredited downhill course to host the event. However, plans are now forging ahead and the resort hopes to build the track in summer 2023-2024. “It’s not going to be the longest UCI downhill course, but we’re going to make it a bit more technical than most… there’s quite a lot of rock gardens that can be activated from the summit.”

So whether you visit this month or next year, there is plenty to explore at Falls Creek, with equal amounts of challenge and reward. And after your daily exploits, ample accommodation and a vibrant dining scene awaits. 

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Shuttles: From $85, bluedirt.com.au

Local Knowledge: Book your accommodation in advance during peak holiday season, and double check which cafes, pubs, and restaurants are open during your stay. 

If riding the Fainter Track, organise a shuttle with the resort to pick you up from Mount Beauty at the end and return you to Falls Creek. 

Best eats and drinks: Last Hoot, Frying Pan Inn, Alpine Pepper, Canazei, Blue Dirt Bike Café, Huski Kitchen, Milche Café Bar

Where to stay: Our favourites are Diana Lodge, Huski Apartments and St. Falls Resort
AMB's favourite trail: Big Fella – a classic high speed and technical roller coaster! 

What bike?: A trail or enduro bike depending on what trails you're riding – although the Specialized Levo SL was perfect for Fainters!

Website: fallscreek.com.au

Mount Beauty 

We departed Falls Creek in the early hours of the morning, waking to a stunning blue bird day. We were on a mission to Big Hill Mountain Bike, in the much-loved town of Mount Beauty. Beauty is a scenic 30 minute drive from Falls Creek, nestled at the base of Mount Bogong. Its name is self-explanatory: no matter where you are in this town, you will be gazing up to a stunning mountain-scape. 

Big Hill Mountain Bike Park is maintained and cherished by the local club, Team Mount Beauty. The park has some of the best facilities in the region, with an undercover BBQ area, bike wash bay, drinking water, toilet block, and carpark. It’s a 2 minute ride to the town centre, so after parking we zipped into town for a cheeky visit to the famous Mount Beauty Bakery. 

Once back at the park, we caught up with the prince of Mount Beauty, Ben McIlroy. It’s hard not to be a fan of this guy; with a beaming smile and effortless style on the bike, Ben is a common sight on Enduro podiums around Australia. He began his successful junior career right here in Mount Beauty, taming the maze of tight and technical trails of Big Hill. When we say tight and technical, we mean it. Big Hill trails are unlike anything else in the High Country; you won’t find any neat doubles or supportive berms here, and that’s what makes it so special. These trails as are as old as the sport itself, playing host to multiple XCO and Downhill championships, and birthing countless legends of Australian mountain biking. 

We followed Ben down a couple of his favourite runs, including Tupacs Back and Big Hill DH. In classic Beauty fashion, these trails are riddled with makeshift drops, flat corners, and ruts that will only continue to deepen over time. I had to keep reminding myself to look ahead as far as possible to link up lines across roots and switchbacks. The sandy soil was in prime condition after some rain, allowing us to grip and rip through the turns. 

The line choices are endless around here, and it definitely pays to follow a local! While these were both black diamond rated, there’s an endless network of green and blue trails for riders seeking to hone their skills. The main climbing trail rewards riders with expansive views down the valley, or Big Hill Road will take shuttle drivers expressly to the top of the hill. 

If you don’t mind a challenge, there’s easily a day’s worth of exploration here, and you’ll never do the same run twice. Our parting tips for Big Hill would be: (a) begin your ride with an open and creative mind – there are no clear lines here, so it’s the perfect place to take your riding to a new level. And (b) check the map before riding or engage with a trusty local – this park is truly a maze! 

Shuttles: Free self-shuttling 

Local Knowledge: The trails here perform exceptionally well after rain. Note there is a singletrack climbing trail, as well as two fire roads (Big Hill Road and West Kiewa Firetrail) which can be ridden to the top of the hill. The Survey Track runs across the road from Big Hill carpark and is an excellent scenic option for those who are time crunched.

Best eats and drinks: Mount Beauty Bakery, Honeybird Coffee, Seasons Café

Where to stay: Various motels, or on mountain at Falls Creek

AMB's favourite trail: Darkside – a tight and twisty technical trail with features unique to the area

What bike? A trail or enduro bike is perfect!

Website: tmb.org.au

Mount Buller 

Initially one of Australia’s Alpine powerhouses, there was period where Mount Buller fell off the mountain bike radar. The narrow, pedally, and relatively uncomplicated trails were in desperate need of an update to compete with modern advancements in trail building and increasingly capable bikes. Situated on arguably the most scenic mountain in Australia, the Buller trails were crying out for a new standard that would reflect its landscape and bring back the swarms of mountain bikers that once visited religiously. 

A coupole of years back, the resort has answered those cries emphatically. The highly respected team at Contour Works have overhauled what was known as the “XC” side of the resort, while the passionate diggers at TrailScapes have refined the much-loved ABOM and International gravity trails. Suffice to say, a $1.25 million grant from the Victorian Government’s Regional Tourism Fund was put to excellent use.

Ryan De La Rue of Contour Works

I visited Buller last year to catch up with Contour Works while they were finishing their work on Gang Gangs and other trails; the refurbishments made some parts of the old trail nearly unrecognisable, transforming them from wearied runs into fast, all-mountain roller coasters. With a taste for the future, I was excited to return and experience the new Stonefly descent amongst others.

Our first stop as we drove from Mt Beauty was All Terrain Cycles in Mansfield – the same business as the Bright store. Knowing the wide spread and variable terrain of Buller, we rented some Specialized Levo SLs again to assist us in our explorations.

Stoneflying

The drive up to Mount Buller never gets old. As the road leaves the valley and edge of the Delatite River, it twists ever higher, moving into the iconic alpine setting. I implore you to put the windows down and let the smell of the forest enter your car as you drive to the mountain-top resort.

Ride the Delatite River Trail

Once unloaded in the village, we met with David “Danger” McCoombe from Mt Buller and Mt Stirling Resort Management. Danger would be acting as our guide, and we set out on Stonefly. Once a scenic climb, Contour Works have now turned the first half of Stonefly into a brilliant descent while still doing justice to the jaw-dropping scenery. Before we hit the second half, David explained some of the changes which Buller has embraced.

“The revamp has just created what modern riders want to see. Everyone has ‘singletrack’ now, but a destination like Buller wants a bit more than that.”

“My favourite trail was probably Clancy’s [before the renovations] but what they’ve done to it now has made in 100x better. It’s still Clancy’s, but it’s got that modern twist that we’re all craving.” 

Gone are the tight, awkward corners and misplaced rocks. Gone are the false flats narrow straights. Buller 2.0 is here, and it’s a shimmering example of big mountain riding and expert trail building. Beginning at the top of Cornhill, Clancy’s sent us down a rollercoaster of tall berms, rock rolls, and cheeky gaps. It’s the kind of trail you’d expect from a mainstream alpine resort and it delivers on every front. We were left smiling and yew-ing by the end of the track, ready to loop back around and descend again to find all the hidden lines.  

After lapping up the tacky conditions and panoramic views, we settled into our cosy accommodation at Blue Dirt’s Bike Lodge. This central lodge is perfect for mountain bikers with secure bike storage, free parking, and an impressively large kitchen and common area. 

During summer, the resort provides plenty of dining options. Of course, no trip to Buller is complete without a visit to the ABOM Bistro for their classic pub-style menu; I’ve eaten here on every visit to Buller and its warm atmosphere and delicious food is always the perfect cap on a big day. Your morning coffee can be found here as well, but we can also attest to the fine brews across the road at Coffee Garage. And the beauty of sleeping and eating on the hill? The trails are never more than a few pedal strokes away. 

Before we departed, we paid a visit to the Contour Works crew who were conducting maintenance on the revered Epic descent. In a classic tale of destiny, Contour Works’ Ryan De La Rue was actually part of the original World Trail crew which built the Epic Trail back in 2014. He now finds himself leading the Contour Team in the revitalisation of this famous trail. 

The Epic trails extends from Stonefly and takes us through the wild backcountry of the national park. The air is still and quiet, allowing riders to be transported to locations untouched by industrialisation save a few historic huts. This is the kind of experience that brings people to the High Country. Surrounded by ancient trees and spectacular views, the Epic Trail gently undulates along singletrack and fire-road, the calm before the storm of fun that is the Epic descent. 

You can read about the whole Epic trail descent from this seperate visit.

A fresh flavour

‘Modern’ is the certainly one of the best terms to describe Buller’s facelift. Contour Works and TrailScapes have put Buller on equal footing with other Aussie alpine resorts, and it will be overspilling with visitors once the word spreads. But don’t wait for the bandwagon, head to Buller now to experience it for yourself. Regardless of what bike you bring, it’s a truly rewarding few days on top of the world. Whether you hit the downhill trails of ABOM, International and Copperhead, explore the updated networks on the other side of the hill, or tackle the longer trails like Epic and the Delatite River Trail, there's certainly a few days worth of riding at Mount Buller.

Shuttles: From $85, bluedirt.com.au

Local Knowledge: Like many high-altitude destinations, wear layers! You can experience up to four seasons in a day. Be aware that Buller is more spread out than other resorts; if time is a constraint, bring an e-bike. Otherwise, enjoy the groomed climbing trails and shuttles!

Best eats and drinks: ABOM, The Birdcage, Alpine Retreat Hotel, Coffee Garage, Buller Grocer

Where to stay: Blue Dirt Bike Lodge, Mt Buller Chalet

AMB's favourite trail: Stonefly – rewards you all the way after its revamp! 

What bike? We think an eMTB is a great match for the trails at Buller, meaning you can get to a lot of the network to keep the stoke high.

Website: mtbuller.com.au

Lake Mountain

Around the top of the resort is a beginner and intermediate cross-country loop, with some more advanced rock gardens. But what we really came here for was the esteemed Cascades Trail. This 30km top-to-bottom trail begins at the resort, where the shuttles will drop you, and finishes in Marysville. It’s one of the country’s longest descending trails dropping over 1500 meters. 

While there is 1500m of descent to enjoy, you still need to bring your legs – or your e-bike – because short climbs are littered between the descending. Cascades can be broken into 5 main descents, each characterised by their own unique fauna, landscape, and style. One moment you’ll be navigating classic Alpine rock gardens, while another you’ll be flanked by gigantic ferns while streaming through a series of perfectly manicured doubles. 

After each descent, we were left smiling and anticipating the next adventure. Each section had its own distinct flavour; one minute we were challenged to find the smooth line through rock gardens, while another we were ripping through ash black berms. The final section of Cascades is always a favourite amongst locals and visitors alike, and I understand why; aptly named Red Hill with its reddish clay soil, a series of perfectly crafted jumps had us hooting all the way to town. 

Top class trails 

One of the keys to Lake Mountain’s success is the standard at which they maintain their trails. It’s rare to come across a fallen tree or puddle which isn’t already being attended to. The proud and tight-knit resort crew undertake a daily mission of ensuring the trail quality is reaching its highest potential. Ben from the trail maintenance staff guided us through a life in the day of this busy but rewarding lifestyle. 

“We’ve got a small little crew – about four of us. We start off in the morning at the top of the resort and head out onto the trails to do the whipper snipping, raking, and berms that need to be shaped. Then every Friday we do a trail check: we ride the trails on the e-bike, making sure that all the trails are in tip-top condition.”

You’d be hard pressed to find a prouder maintenance team than the one found at Lake Mountain. Cascades is their baby, and you can see this love and dedication reflected in every metre of track. Whether you ride at Lake Mountain on a Friday afternoon or a Monday morning, pristine trails and enchanted forests await you. If you live in Melbourne, Lake Mountain should become a regular pilgrimage; and if you’re road tripping through the Victorian High Country, this place is the cherry on top. 

Shuttles: From $38, lakemountainresort.com.au

Local Knowledge: Avoid the weekend city exodus and arrive mid-week! We recommend taking a hydration pack on the Cascades, as there aren’t many places to refill along the route.

Best eats and drinks: The Duck Inn Pub, Fraga’s Café, Marysville Country Bakery

Where to stay: Tower Motel, Peppers Marysville

AMB's favourite trail: The Cascades – of course! 

What bike? An agile trail bike is the perfect choice.

Website: lakemountainresort.com.au

Bright

Where to begin? Geographically, Bright is sandwiched between the towering peaks of Mount Buffalo and Mount Feathertop. It’s a true alpine village, and many refer to it as ‘mini Canada’ due to its pine laden hills. Of course, these pine trees are non-native and used for logging. However, they play a vital role in the town’s recreational infrastructure, including that of the famous Mystic Mountain Bike Park. 

Each season of the year brings a different personality to Bright. Autumn lines the streets with red and pink hues and the trails with hero dirt; winter brings the snow to the peaks and heavy rainfall to the valley; and spring produces patches of blossom trees and renewed motivation. But summer provides the essence of Bright with its blue skies, countless swimming holes, bustling dining spaces, and of course – deep, dark tan lines from hours and hours of riding. 

The heart of Bright

Despite its popularity – or rather, because of its popularity – Mystic has had to reassess its financial structure moving forward. The recreational use of the park is managed by Alpine Community Plantation (APC), a board comprised of local stakeholders including the Alpine Cycling Club, Alpine Shire Council, the State Government, and various others. It costs a significant amount of money each year to ensure safe use of the park, allowing mountain bikers to ride in what is essentially an active forestry worksite. There were fears earlier in 2022 of the park closing due to increasing visitation and static financing; however it seems the park has found a new lifeline, with APC and the Shire devising new strategies – including day and annual park memberships – to ensure the future of Mystic. Since recognising its struggles, the Bright locals have come together in huge and vociferous numbers to assist in anyway possible with the success of their beloved playground. Be sure to grab yourself a Mystic membership before hitting the trails! 

I went riding with my mate Lachie, a born-and-bred local who could ride these trails with his eyes closed. We rode some of the lower trails in the park, mostly because we didn’t fancy the huge climb to the top on this particular day! Corkscrew and Jeep Track are a couple underrated gems which keep us on our toes. Their mellow gradient allows us to ditch the knee guards, while their roughly shoveled nature means we can pick new lines on each run. 

All about apres

Once you’re done lapping up the trails, the town centre is just a 5 minute ride from Mystic trailhead. Bright offers an impressive variety of dining options for a small village. Whether you’re chasing frozen yogurt or a traditional schnitty, there are eats to satiate every craving. Of course, it wouldn’t be a trip to Bright without a beer tasting at the Bright Brewery, and if you’re feeling generous, you can take some retail cans back home to your mates. 

In terms of accommodation, if you have a taste for up-market and boutique stays, try the recently renovated Bright Velo

Shuttles: From $85, bluedirt.com.au 

Local Knowledge: As weekends see peak traffic through town, mid-week adventures are a treat in Bright. Beat the rush and enjoy efficient shuttles and quiet trails Monday to Friday. 

Local bike shops are still open 7 days a week for all your rental, repair, and accessory needs. 

If the trails are damp, stick to the technical tracks as these will drain better and have more grip than the flow trails.

Best eats and drinks: Bright Brewery, Tomahawks, Hometown, Dr Mauve, Don Mungo’s, Sir Loins, Empire Dining, Lamb on Gavan, Clean Bowled, Sixpence

Where to stay: Bright Velo, Bright Chalet, Chestnut Tree Holiday Units, Bright Riverside Holiday Park, and many, many more.

AMB's favourite trail: Corkscrew, Jeep Track, Boogaloo, the list goes on…

What bike? Whether you take your trail bike for fun and pedal ups, an enduro bike for shuttling, an XC bike to test your mettle or an eMTB to pack the descents in – you're in for a treat.

Website: mysticpark.org.au

Where to next?

As our journey draws to a close, it’s safe to say we only just scratched the surface of everything the Victorian High Country has to offer. As we drove through the windy roads, I was constantly reminded of other nearby riding destinations. It’s a region that warrants multiple trips as more and more options open to riders of all disciplines and abilities. Places like Yackandandah and Beechworth are less than an hour from Mount Beauty or Bright and opened their own Indigo Epic Trail to add to their individual networks.

On the other side of Mount Hotham, Dinner Plain provides a haven for groms and beginner mountain bikers with their flowy and easily accessible trails. Further along, Omeo is set to welcome over 50kms of cross-country and gravity singletrack over the next year, a prospect which has locals and tourists alike salivating. Regardless of where you start and finish, you will be spoiled for choice when searching for stoke in the High Country. 

We’d like to thank Isuzu for their loan of the robust yet luxurious D-Max. This made the long drives an absolute pleasure, with plenty of room for all our gear and equipment. The ute was fitted out with the new Shingleback SPORT rack, a brand who designs, tests, and builds its renowned products right here in Victoria. Our bags were full of fresh gear from 100%, thanks to the legends at FE SportsRide High Country for helping us plot and organise this trip; we were provided with the best eats and sleeps, helping us pass this invaluable knowledge and expertise on to our readers!