The Western Australia Road Trip V2.0

Words: James Lobegeiger

Photos: Denzil Heeger

 

Where are we going to go? 

How long do we go for? 

Who is coming? 

Where will we stay? 

Who decides the playlist? 

The list goes on. In the past, mountain bike road trips in Western Australia were easy. There weren’t as many places with great trails to choose from. Usually you just went to a race, then called through another location on the way home to ride the trails if you had extra time off work. But after the first Places that Rock Western Australia Road Trip in 2019, the list of places that missed out that was bigger than the trip itself. There was unfinished business.

Cut to late 2021. As Mike and the rest of the east coast editorial team were out due to the hard border closure, we needed a totally Western Australian based crew to get the job done. With so many great trail developments in the past two years, there was a lot to go check out, with places to ride, people to meet, and burgers to sample.

After a heap of emails, messages, a Teams meeting and sharing of spreadsheets; we had a crew, some locations and a schedule. On the last trip we looked at some of the favourite riding locations of the locals, places with established trail networks that rock. This time, the plan was to look at the proliferation of trail development that has been happening in the South West, along with seeing if we could find some new favourites. With Rod Annear, of the Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions, along for the trip we had the perfect inside man to give us the scoop on anything and everything in trail development in Western Australia.

 

The Goat Farm Mountain Bike Park – Wajuk Country

On the 2019 Places That Rock Road Trip, we started in the Perth Hills riding some of the trails of the Kalamunda Circuit. Once again, we start with a trail network close to Perth – which is the logical launching point for any visit to Western Australia. Just 25 minutes from the Perth CBD, and 15 minutes from the Perth airport, the Goat Farm is the most easily accessible trail network in the Perth metropolitan area. As we pull into the car park at the Goat Farm, we can immediately see the effects of the new trail development that has been on going. If we had got here any later, we would struggle to find a park. 

We unload the bikes from the Isuzu MUX we’ve been loaned, and meet the crew we are riding with today. It’s a big crew, with a group of trail builders from Three Chillies Design, Marg and Sam from the Goat Farmers (the community group that organises maintenance on the park), and a few other local riders that are also keen to come for a ride. 

The Goat Farm has a long history with mountain biking, especially as a race venue. The early 90s saw Perth Mountain Bike Club races, with XC, DH, and even a dual slalom held here. There were also bigger events like combined State XC and DH Championships and a Downhill and Cross-Country National Round in ’99.  Sometime after this, the park was given a much-needed upgrade, with new trails constructed, signage installed, a designated carpark built, and various infrastructure additions like toilets, trail maps, picnic tables and shelter sheds built. But since this mid-noughties refresh, there has been no new work beyond a small amount of ongoing maintenance and trail realignments. 

With the hill being sparsely treed, over time the network of trails became braided and the demands for more technical trail have seen a variety of new lines built by locals looking for greater challenges and race organisers trying to keep things interesting. It got to a point that it was hard to navigate the hill, as there were cut trails and inside lines branching off the gazetted trails all over the place. A refresh was definitely in order, with new trails to cater for the advances in technical ability of riders and bikes, and a rehab of some of the older and unstainable trails.

 

Riding The Goat Farm

We climb Wi-Fly, a green switch back climb on the northern side of the park that takes us to the top. It is an appropriately signed trail with a swooping Magpie on the trail sign. Fortunately, it’s not the right season so no one is attacked by the sky shark today. At the top, we drop into Flowtopia, and it feels like the road trip has begun for real. Here we get to experience what makes the trails at the Goat Farm so unique in relation to the rest of the Perth Hills: a lack of pea-gravel. The red earth is moist and grippy, and Flowtopia’s numerous berms and tabletops are the perfect run to start the day.

Following on from Flowtopia we head back up for a run down Legacy. I try not to bash the rear rim too often in the rock gardens, well aware that riding a trail bike lacking inserts on a genuine downhill race trail is a good way to find out the hiking capabilities of my fresh kicks. Stopping at the new bridge, Tom, Tanya along with Tarky, Charlie and Azza from Three Chillies session it, and some of the jumps on the trail it goes over. We move further down the trail. With a gravity enduro coming up many lines are stopped on and practiced. Tarky, determined to make the first highlights reel of the trip throws himself off the bike at the bottom of a rock garden near A-Klein. We go back up for more, riding sections of Blue Tongue, a blue trail, and Tipping Point, a black.  Paul Neve, the head honcho of Three Chillies, shows us some of his favourite flat turns and an awesome set of steep turns and drops leading into some large tabletops. 

Back at the carpark, we decide to break for lunch. A short 6km drive away at the Little Nook Café we eat; the food is tasty, and we chat under the shade of some marri trees outside. Over lunch it doesn’t take much encouragement to convince Charlie to agree to showing us some of the, then yet to be opened trail, Rampage. 

 

Rampaging at the Goat Farm

Back at the park, we quickly climb Bleat Street. It is a harder climb than Wi Fly, being nearly half the distance, but it gets you to the top in way less time. On Rampage we are in for an eye-opening experience as Charlie rips around massive berms to send equally massive step-ups and step-downs. We finish our time at the Goat Farm with another run of Flowtopia and then Rod kicks into tour guide mode. Bikes loaded onto the cars; we drive across to John Forrest National Park. Here, as we casually ride up the Railway Heritage Trail, taking in the views of the valley below, Rod talks about the future development of the park as an adventure trails centre. Then we hit the road for Dwellingup. The one-and-a-half-hour drive should get us to Dwellingup Holiday House with enough time to unpack and get cleaned up before heading across the road to the pub for dinner.

 

What to expect: A compact gravity focused network of trails.  There are trails for riders of all abilities including some good adaptive ones. It is possible to ride some more XC style loops, but you’ll find most people will be there to do runs of the hill with their mates.

Where to stay: Plenty of accommodation options nearby. Look for Perth Hills locations like Darlington, Greenmount, Kalamunda or Gooseberry Hill if you want something a little different to the usual hotel or motel stay.

Best coffee: Less than 15 minutes from the Goat Farm, Kalamunda has a heap of good options. Mason and Bird and Jack and Jill are both standouts.

Best place for a meal: Pere Bakery in Gooseberry Hill for some fresh pastries, Taco Maria for some great Mexican.

Don’t miss: The view from the top of the hill out to the city is always worth it. On a rainy day looking out to the west is also a good way to work out how many trails you can get in before the weather rolls in.

AMB’s must ride trails: 

Flowtopia: Probably the most popular trail in the park, blue flow and the name says it all. Berms, tabletops and rollers that are gapable if you’re carrying a bit more speed.

Rampage: If you have a desire to go big, this is your trail. A serious double black trail with features not for the faint hearted. It’s been a long time coming for Western Australia. Kudos to all those involved in delivering it.

Dwellingup – Pinjarup Country

On the previous Places that Rock Road Trip we rode Dwellingup. Why are we back? Quite simply because one day isn’t enough, and in the past two years the Murray Valley trail network has grown significantly. 

Heading out of Dwellingup Holiday House to get breakfast, Dwellingup is living up to its Nyungar meaning, “on and by the whole place there is fog, dew and mist”. So, with wet weather gear on and collective groans from the media squids behind the lenses, we roll across the road to the glistening new trails and visitor centre. 

With a range of walking, mountain biking and four-wheel driving trails and canoe routes in the vicinity, the Trails and Visitor Centre is busy. We eat, caffeinate, and plan the days’ activities at Waypoints Café inside the centre. As the rain persists, we take the time to look around. As well as a café and an information centre, Dwellingup Adventures is located in the complex and offers bike, canoe, raft, camping gear hire and a bike shop. The centre also houses showers, a bike wash and repair station, free Wi-Fi, charging stations and lockers, all within 50m of the Hotham Valley Railway, as well as a large pump track and skate park. It is quite a set up, and word is that there will potentially be a hops-based drinks facility in the not-too-distant future. It looks like it will remain busy all year round. 

 

Taking to the trails

Meeting with a crew of locals, including John Cusack (not that John Cusack), Josh White and his son, it is decided that we will ride out to the Marrinup Circuit via some of the trails used in the Dwellingup 100 event, while the guys with cameras will take protective measures and drive. Their loss. Groomed recently, the trails are in perfect condition. The ride out isn’t a hard one. The climbs are mellow and the descents, although short and pedally, flow well. At Marrinup Campsite, we meet the rest of the team.

The Marrinup Circuit is an old XC racecourse built in the late 90s by the Peel Districts Mountain Bike Club. Hand cut singletrack is interspersed with a few fire trails for passing and it is a family favourite. You will find beginner groups riding the short loop from the campsite and the more experienced or adventurous completing the long loop or riding from town. Dodging bushes laden with water, sagging onto the trail, we head off. A combination of the pea gravel and recent maintenance means there is hardly a puddle to be seen. At the junction of the long and short loops, we divert off to visit the Marrinup Prisoner of War (POW) Camp. It is only about 600m from the circuit and the history is interesting. John regales us with tales of its operation during the Second World War, post war stories of inmates abscondment to the Dwellingup Hotel and how some jumped from the train never to arrive at the Fremantle port when they were sent home. Heading back, some of us return to town via the long loop dodging some of the damp Northshore-esq log rides, like the POW Camp, relics of a previous era. 

In the afternoon, Rod, Brett, Denzel and I visit the Lane Poole Reserve. Rod has completely embraced his role of tour guide, showing us some of the best the reserve has to offer. We call past Treetops Adventure, a mix of ropes courses and ziplines catering for children from 3 years old to adults. We see the new canoe launch at the Chuditch Picnic Area and stop at the Chuditch Campground. The Chuditch Campground is one of the access points to the Murray Valley Mountain Bike Trails. And here begins our deep dive into the nomenclature of trail names on DBCA estate. A Chuditch or Western Quoll is the largest carnivorous marsupial in Western Australia and 200m from the camp on the south-eastern most extremity of the trails is a flowing green trail Quollity Street. A little bit of a pun, but a lot of fun.

 

More Murray Valley goodness

We continue the tour to the Murray Valley Trailhead and park up. Here Rod talks more about the naming of the Murray Valley trails as we get kitted up to ride. Being later in the afternoon, we decide to do a quick loop of Captain Hook and Quokkamoly. 

Charles Edward Lane Poole, namesake of the Lane Poole Reserve, was the second university trained forester in Australia. As a 19-year-old he lost his hand in a shooting accident, and having the hand amputated he replaced it with a steel hook. In 1921, working as Conservator of Forests, he developed Western Australia’s first forestry legislation. A tough advocate for responsible use of the forests, he often fought with both the government he was employed by and the timber industry. Captain Hook is a fitting trail to be named after him: a tough blue-rated climb with scattered rock gardens and steep climbing switchbacks, it’ll make you fight.

At the top of Captain Hook, a little bit cross-eyed from the exertion of keeping pace with Rod and Brett and their e-bikes, we drop into Quokkamoly, a trail in 3 parts. The top half of the trail consists of ripping berms and tabletops. Once we cross the fire road, we hook into what feels like one of the original Murray Valley trails. The trail narrows and turns dark as we enter the thick pines, but the speed doesn’t drop off. Punching gaps between the trees before we know it, we hit the flat turns and are climbing to the final section of the trail. The final section of the trail can only be described as dual slalom. Two lanes wide with parallel jumps and berms, it’s a perfect place to get a late trail pass on a mate and bragging rights as to who got down the trail fastest. 

Back at the cars, Brett and I load our bikes onto the Thule Velospace XT 3 rack on the back of the Isuzu MUX and drive the 15 minutes back to Dwellingup Holiday House. A quick shower and some photo and video downloads and we wander across the road to the Dwellingup Hotel for dinner.

Dawn of day three

The morning of day three begins with an early start at The Roost, the top trail head of the Murray Valley trails. From here, you can access the four shuttle-able trails in the regrowth section of the network, or you can head out into the native forest for some longer loops. We decide to knock off the loops before finishing on the shuttle trails. With Murray Valley being only about an hour and a half from the Perth Hills, it wasn’t that hard to convince my good friends Tim and Jo Bennett, and their son Ollie to make a day trip to join us and ride. Ollie stumbles out of their car looking ready for a big nap. Along with Nic, Jake, Alan from Loz Trails and Ash from Loose Riders, we head out. 

Later-rite lives up to its name: small rocks and pea gravel everywhere. We chat, looking forward to the target trail, Inzamia. If you hadn’t guessed, this trail is insanely good. The team of rock stars from Magic Dirt Trailworx absolutely nailed this one. Flowing and rolling along the top of the hill like we’re on a pea gravel pump track, the stoke builds. We skim over a small rock garden and we’re off the edge, into a series of bermed switch backs. The soil changes. What was pea gravel with just the right amount of slip is now clay-based loam with perfect grip. Berm roller, berm roller, roller berm. Pushing harder trying to hold the wheel of the rider in front of you, hoping to open a gap to the rider behind you. We’re in the flow zone now. The gradient has flattened (slightly). The switchbacks have been replaced by gently sculptured turns and the speed is picking up. Faster and faster, tyres glued to the matte brown dirt, vivid green zamia fronds brushing our arms and whipping our legs, a roller to pop, a dip to squash, flick, flick two berms, big dipper. This trail is Inzamia! 

Riding back up the Munda Biddi trail there are grins all round and Ollie’s sleepiness has been replaced by eagerness to hit the next trail. For another lap, we could turn left at the Faultline – Quollity Street intersection and climb Faultline to the start of Inzamia or Karrakatoa, but we head onward. 

Blue Marron is described as a cross-country trail. A good cross-country trail it is, too. Along with the requisite climbs and descents, it has magnificent views of the Murray River and surrounding countryside. We take a break at the top of the first climb, catching our breath as we discuss the upcoming features. Built by Three Chillies Design, and with Sam Hill involved in the design, you know there will be more to the trail than one line. The discussion revolves around the optional black features on the otherwise blue trail. 

 

“Are you going to take the inside log hit on the tight right hander?” 

“Do you huck the rock at the top of the off-camber granite rock garden?” 

“I’m definitely taking the inside rock garden on the left turn; you can save over a second.” 

I follow Tim down the trail. We don’t ride together as much as we used to, but instantly the trust is there. Years of chasing his wheel come back. I’m pushing harder than normal but it feels right. We all stop to session the rock garden. I crash. My pride takes the big hit as knee, shin, elbow, glove and demo bike all receive superficial injuries. As the group moves on, I go back for another crack, and Tim hangs back to make sure I survive. Cheers mate.

We ride back up to The Roost on Yarri Up. Rod has arrived with breakfast, and I quickly wolf down some banana bread and a coffee whilst dressing my wounds. 

 

“Do we get to do jumps now?” Ollie wants to know. 

“Yes, we’re riding Busted Nuts.” 

The kid is beaming as he leads the charge. “Ready to Shreddy!” he yells as he takes off from the car park.

The Karrak (Red Tailed Black Cockatoo) is the mascot for the Dwellingup Adventure Trails. It has a large beak and is known for ripping open Marri nuts to feed. You can identify what bird did this by how the nuts are busted. And so, to Busted Nuts. It’s a black trail and my confidence is off. I roll through the well-crafted berms, step downs and tables, content to watch as Jake, Alan, Tim and Ollie get sendy. More sessioning follows. A stepdown burps Alan’s rear tyre before Jake rides out the heaviest nose landing I’ve seen in ages. They move on to a sneaky inside gap. Hidden in in the dappled light of some thick pines, on an otherwise clear-cut face to the hill, it is tricky to judge speed and take off. Ollie balks first time through; Jake nails it; and Tim just makes it without casing the landing. 

At the bottom of the trail, we jump into Ash’s Loose Riders Shuttle van and head back to The Roost. With the morning’s riding over, it is back to Waypoints Café in Dwellingup for lunch and a quick rip around the pump track before we part ways and head to Collie.

 

What to expect: A wide variety of trails, from what you can take your 6-year-old on through to black trails that will scratch up your test bike. Pea gravel. There is a mix of trail surfaces, but Dwellingup still has plenty of it.

Where to stay: There are plenty of accommodation options. Dwellingup Holiday House is in a really convenient location for riding, and well-equipped.

Best coffee: Waypoints Café 

Best place for a meal: Blue Wren Café is a long-time favourite for lunch, or for a good pub feed head to the Dwellingup Hotel for dinner.

Don’t miss: a trip out to Treetops Adventure if you’re after a bit more of an adrenaline hit, or take a ride on the Hotham Valley Tourist train if something a little more tame is more your speed.

 

AMB’s must ride trails: 

Inzamia: This trail takes you on a journey from the sparce forest with pea gravel turns, steep tight switchback berms in the middle, to all out speed in dense forest at the bottom. You’ll be grinning from ear to ear and thinking about another lap by the time you get to the bottom. 

Quokkamoly: It’s only short, but who doesn’t love a bit of an old school descending through the pines. If only there was more of it.

Blue Marron: The hardest blue trail in Dwellingup, a trail to progress your skills. Turns, jumps, rock gardens, off camber sections and steep in places, this one has it all and is so rewarding when you get it right.

Collie – Kaniyang Country

A conservative US podcast host once pulled a publicity stunt. Dressed in a blue sweater, he set up a desk at a university. Coffee cup with his name on in hand, he sat there with a sign with a controversial one-liner on it asking people to change his mind. So, a meme was born. We’ve been asked if pineapple goes on pizza, whether Jenny from Forrest Gump is a terrible person, and whether a bee should be able to fly, to name a few. I’ve been and ridden in Collie more than once before this trip and while the trails have been enjoyable, inside I feel I’m that guy. Inside I’m sitting in the main street of town at a desk with a sign “Collie’s just OK. Change my mind” So with that in the back of my mind, we leave Dwellingup, one of my favourite towns in Western Australia to ride, for Collie. 

Our early afternoon departure from Dwellingup means that we get through the hour twenty-minute drive with plenty of time left in the day to check into the Black Diamond Lodge where we are staying. The motel has recently had a full restoration and caters well for whatever size group you are in with many room options, a well set out communal kitchen, coin laundry, outdoor BBQ and fire pit area. A small, but possibly best addition, is the inclusion of a hose reel long enough to reach the grassed area out the back. Perfect for washing bikes.

After checking in, we put some fresh riding kit on and roll down to the local bike shop. Crank’n Cycles‘n Toys has to be seen to be believed. Eric, a tall, lanky, pink Croc wearing kid at heart is living every boy’s dream. He has bikes. Lots of bikes, and not just a bike shop full of nice bikes for sale. Hanging from the roof there is a collection of old bikes. Lots of BMCs, Cadel Evans’ replicas, an old BT track bike, a bamboo bike, and many more. But wait, there is more. His bike shop is also a toy shop. One wrong turn in the store and you go from looking at the latest in mountain bike technology to Lego. Genius! This stop could quite easily make a large dent in the bank account. Having perused to the point that it feels like if I stay any longer, I should buy something, we meet locals, Archie, Ben and Brad. They are here to show us the Waygl Biddi Trails. 

The Wilman Trail is an easy green trail that follows along the side of the Collie River from Soldiers Park, in the heart of Collie, out to the Wagyl Biddi trail network. It’s a compact network, with about 8km of trail if you count Wilman Trail. Bounded by one of the meanders of the river, there isn’t a lot of elevation to be had, but what is there has been used well. The trails have plenty of berms, rollers and small rock gardens, and if you are inexperienced in riding pea gravel, this is a great place to hone your skills. It is cool to be riding trails right in the centre of town. They’re perfect if you’ve driven in late in the afternoon and want a quick spin to get some stiffness out of the legs.

After the Wagyl Biddi trails we roll around town looking at the sights, Rod falling back into his role of tour guide, with snippets of information about upcoming developments, as we visit the disused outdoor velodrome and call back past the bike shop. We had to buy something.

 

Onto the trails at Collie

We meet at the Wellington Dam kiosk early the next morning. Dave Willcox and Gerran Turner of Common Ground Trails are there to show us what the team have been working on. Archie and Ben rejoin us for Collie round two. It’s school holidays so why not! 

On a short fireroad climb as we head out to ride Big Dipper, memories from years gone by flood back to me; the first National XC Round I ever raced went up this climb. Names like Woods, Sharples, Rowney and Eva float around in my head. Welli Dam was always a cracker. I’m keen to see what’s on offer. We rider Big Dipper, a fun green flow trail with lots of berms and rollers with a hint of the ubiquitous WA pea gravel. It, along with the following blue flow trail Whip’n Hollow, are the perfect warm up before you slog back along the Jabitj fireroad, Noongar for running water, and into Lichen This. 

Lichen This is pretty special. In an amazing piece of forest, it climbs up through granite boulders with a few crossings of a watercourse as it goes. At the top, Dave peels off for a quick work meeting. It’s not all riding and building as a trail builder, I guess! We head back through the carpark and north to ride Van Dam. This green trail is graded for adaptive use, but it includes off-shoots that are blue rated. Towards the bottom the trail straightens. The gradient is mellow, and we find ourselves pushing faster and pedalling harder. We hit a series of berms, possibly too fast, but doing so just adds to the enjoyment. Then we’re straight into a series of jumps to finish. We cross the road and ride through the Potters Gorge campsite on the side of the dam.

As we ride back to the to the cars to on the Sika Trail, Dave’s meeting has finished, and he joins us for a third loop. Into Pipe’n Hot we go. In the top half, our tyres crunch as we carve through the pea gravel. The trail has a lot to give, with sneaky gaps to be had off rocks on the side and rollers to be doubled if you are carrying enough speed. Then we cross the fireroad and it all changes. We drop into a natural half pipe, and trail name is apt. We’re surfing a wave of hero dirt. I need to let go of the brakes more there is so much grip. At the end we slog back up the fireroad to get to Dam It. We ride the top half with a quick push up to grab a few rocky sections of Firetail before stopping when the bush opens to what is probably the best view of the Wellington Dam mural you will see. 

Not far past this is the turn off to Wam Bam. The filter at the top gives us a good idea as to what to expect. It’s janky. Looking at it, I can see the best line, but am I strong enough to ride it? I zipper my way through. It’s not the best approach but it gets the job done. I’m happy to get it blind. The rocky roll at the bottom just before you re-join Dam It is so sweet! We stop to session the berms at the end. Dam It, these are good trails! Back across Jabitj and up Lichen This and we’re done for the morning.

 

What’s up for Wellington?

Sitting around at The Kiosk at the Dam while we eat lunch, Dave and Rod can’t help but talk shop. It’s a great insight as to what is yet to come for the Wellington National Park trails. With approximately 15km of trail constructed in stage one, it is exciting to hear that there are another 45km to be constructed in stages two and three. Dave draws alignments on a map, explaining what is to come. He’s excited about the good country that the next stages are in. He talks about how much more fall the descents will have in the next stages, areas with “wildflowers absolutely galore”, and “this black trail. There is this gully with this big creek line through the guts of it, waterfalls and boulders as big as this house that you are weaving through.” He points at the kiosk, “that’s the gem in the network” he says. Good country indeed.

We call past the Collie Bike Museum and browse through the old bikes, look at images from past races, and newspaper articles showing Collie’s rich cycling heritage. Sue, the curator, talks about how the town of Collie, with its long history of coal mining, is having to change to maintain its relevance.  The new trails and the boom in mountain biking in the region couldn’t have come at a better time for Collie. 

I think about the guy at the desk as I leave the museum. The things that made Collie “just ok” for me have been replaced by something awesome, and the trails that are coming in the next year or so will take it to a world class level. My mind has been changed. I’d suggest you get down there soon and change yours, too.

 

What to expect: A trail town on the go. Lots of new trails have been constructed catering for all trail users. It’s only getting bigger and better in the future too!

Where to stay: We stayed at Black Diamond Lodge. There are lots of other accommodation options on the Collie River Valley website. 

Best coffee: Wagon 537

Best place for a meal: Kiosk at the Dam for a post ride feed and beers. The Federal Hotel in town for dinner.

Don’t miss: A stop for a chat with Eric at Crank’n Cycles. If you’re not sure where to start, he can give you some pointers on which local trails to ride.  If it is open, the Collie Bike Museum is worth a visit. Otherwise if you are around for a while, you can call and make an appointment to have a look around.

 

AMB’s must ride trails

Pipe’n Hot: The natural half pipe in this trail will have you wanting to go back for more. The dirt isn’t half bad either.

Wam Bam/Dam It: Has a bit of everything in it. The hand cut tech in Dam It is complimented by the fun flowing turns at the end of Wam Bam. It is the best viewing point for the much talked about Wellington Dam mural, too.

Lichen This: A great climbing trail that must be seen to truly appreciate the effort that has gone into the construction. Also, it’s the best way back to the trailhead if you do any of the trails that descend to the river.

Nannup – Bibbulman Country

On day one of the road trip looking at the features Three Chillies Design had built at the Goat Farm we were in awe of the size and scale of construction. When we comment on this, the resounding response from the trail builders was, “This isn’t that big. You should see Nannup.” 

With that bouncing around in the back of my mind, we pack up, check out of the Black Diamond Lodge, and head out of Collie on our way to Nannup. We grab a quick meal at Wagon 537 as we drive out of town, which was well worth it. My muesli, berries and yoghurt hit the spot, and the coffee was superb. 

Following Rod, we detour out to see the new suspension bridge that has been constructed as part of the new 65km Wiilman Bilya walk trail. 65km seems like a lot of walking to me, but Rod’s enthusiasm for the trail is contagious, and as he shows us a new style of stair tread DBCA are now using, I start to think of packs, Trangia stoves and the like, before coming to my senses. I remember that buying multi-day hike equipment is like walking into a bike shop and passing the credit card to the sales assistant and saying, “What do I need?”

 

Onwards to Nannup 

We meet at the Tank 7 Trailhead. Pete, Dave, Mitch, Heath and Craig from Three Chillies Design are there to ride with us.  The project here is quite a unique one, with elements coming under the jurisdiction of three governing bodies; DBCA control the land, the Forest Product Commission manage the trees, and the Shire of Nannup are responsible for the trails. Nannup has always had the potential to be a great riding destination, but there haven’t always been a lot of people riding here.  Now investment in the Nannup Trail Town Project aims to transform the area into a destination renowned for its trails. Starting with $700 000 in 2019 to create over 35km of trail in the park, broader plans will see an expansion of the trail network and a freestyle jump park, amongst other things.  

We hit the trails to get a taste of what the park is about.  First up we ride Easy Tiger, which, combined with Stairway to Seven, makes a fun blue loop. We descend through the pines, flowing through large berms and tabletops. Trail builders all seem to have their own distinct style and have a certain feel to them, and Three Chillies-built trails are no exception. Hitting the first few berms in Easy Tiger, the feel is there. This is a Three Chillies trail. It is reassuring, and although I haven’t ridden the trail before, it seems familiar and finding flow is easy. I push, to no avail. The skill of the builders way exceeds mine and quickly I’m dropped. So, I focus on the turns and trying to land smoothly on the down ramps of the tabletops. 

Towards the bottom with light rain misting through the pines, we regroup, and the cameras come out. Spurred on by the cameras, a series of berms are ridden and re-ridden with intent. Who can get through them the fastest without rolling a tyre or crashing? Mitch, showing full commitment in the first run, goes beyond the limit of grip on the rain slickened final berm and ends up turned around 180 degrees facing the direction he has come from. This doesn’t dampen the spirits of the rest of the crew, and so berms are slapped again and again. Climbing back Stairway to Seven I’m relieved the pace isn’t fast. The riding this week is building up in my legs. This climb has steeper switchbacks at the bottom and the top and an extended more mellow middle section. The blue loop done; I wonder how big the big features are. 

 

Black, with extra black

Moving on, we drive across to the Galena Trailhead and roll from there across to Man vs Machine. “This one is Double Black,” we are informed. “There is a step down just off the fire road. You can walk in to shoot it.” These statements can be taken as a challenge or a warning. I believe I know my abilities on the bike well enough so accept it as a warning. I walk to the gap jump. The trail is steep, initially slightly off camber before straightening out and opening to the jump. It is the type of trail I like, until I see the gap. There is no trail between the lip and the down ramp. There is no B-line, and the gap is huge. Pete, Dave and Mitch hit it no problem. The trail continues, it is packed with massive features, step-ups, double rock drops and berms large enough to park a small car on. All of them are handled with steeze by the Three Chillies trail crew. 

Conveniently, on either side of Man vs Machine there are two black trails that they want to show us. Black Ice, named for the slickness of the tread when wet, is a tight rocky natural trail following a creek to the north of Man vs Machine. And the second half of The Local to the south. We ride sections of both trails, The Local being very steep and rocky in places. Black Ice has a British Columbia feel to it. “Steep and deep” springs to mind. 

On the long fire road climb out, Brett talks about how impressed he is by the construction of Man vs Machine. “It is hard to build a trail like that with massive features and have the speed right. Every run in is spot on, there is no need for a few quick pedal strokes so you can make the gaps. If you have the ability all you have to do is roll in.” 

We ride on, heading along Folly Farmer, an open blue flow trail, to get to the steep rock section at the bottom of Blackwood. The enormity of what the trail crew has built since December 2020 is beginning to become apparent. 38km of quality trail in around 20 trails is a big build on a hill this size.

We ride back to the Galena Trailhead, climbing part of Weitj Awhile on the way. With dark clouds in the sky looking ominous, we drop into Eagle Eye. It starts with plenty of fun rollers to pop off as it traverses through established pines along a ridge heading north from the Galena Trailhead. Crossing a fire road, we drop off the ridge and into a young pine forest, the trees thickly packed as they haven’t been thinned yet. The trail is still cut wide, so the visibility is good when it is straight and level, but as it drops into a series of steeper turns, the ability to read the trail and make quick judgments become key. 

We pop out of the pines and over a rocky outcrop, off the edge and back into more steep turns and back in the plantation. This is the type of trail I’d happily lap daily. The rain comes down hard as we ride back to the top before go to finish with the top section of Cheap Thrills. It’s green. The gradient is mellow, just right to have a lot of fun. Three Chillies trail crew double, manual and flow through it in a demonstration that not all trails need to be hard to be enjoyable.

We drive the five kilometres into town to clean up before dinner.  The muddy bikes get a wash, and we shower and head to the newly opened Nannup Brewing Company for dinner. As we eat, we chat about the progression in trails and trail building in the state over the last few years. One of us mentions what we on the road trip have been thinking for a while: it feels like there is a friendly rivalry between the local builders. They see what another crew are doing and in response step up their game too. Peter Smythe has a different perspective “At Three Chillies, we’re finally getting the opportunity to build the trails we want to ride.”  At Nannup they have been given a very big opportunity. They have taken it, and delivered. 

 

What to expect: A varied network of well-constructed trails a short ride from town with a bit of everything for everyone. Expect to see a large proportion of riders shuttling, but there are some good climbing options for riders who want to earn their turns.

Where to stay: The Experience Nannup app has a range of options including camping, farm stays, bed and breakfasts and the Nannup Hotel. 

Best coffee: Melo Velo

Best place for a meal: Nannup Brewing Company

Don’t miss: The Weitj Nature Playground at Marino Tomas Bicentennial Park is worth a look if you have kids in tow. For a dose of schadenfreude, the Nannup clock tower. It was built to house the world’s largest wooden pendulum clock but a dispute with the owner of the clock saw it removed within months of it opening.

AMB’s must ride trails: 

Eagle Eye: Fun, fun, fun. A great blue trail, pumpy rollers, some rocky bits, steep sections and corners. Just a really good time on a bike.

Easy Tiger: A fun way to get started at the Tank 7 Trailhead. Full of rollers, hip jumps and heaps of 180-degree berms to finish. This is the epitome of a Three Chillies trail.

Man vs Machine: Not for the majority of riders this trail has probably the biggest features in Western Australia. Even if you can’t ride them, it is worth having a look at just to try and understand how well some people can ride. 

Margaret River – Wardandi Country

We have breakfast at Melo Velo, a cool little bike shop and cafe, set up in an old house on the main street of Nannup, before making the short drive across to Margaret River.  The sub hour drive, although rainy, is uneventful and I spend most of the time hoping for finer weather when we get there.  

Margaret River is probably most well-known to most Australians for its surf and wines. For Australian mountain bikers, thanks predominantly to the popularity of the Cape to Cape, we know there is more than that to do in the surrounds of this bustling coastal town in the southwest of Western Australia. 

Driving through Margaret River you know you’re not in Nannup anymore. The main street is busy. Cars with bikes and or boards abound. An RV is parked out the front of the tourist centre, and the traffic going the other way is at a standstill as a grey nomad’s four-wheel drive towing a caravan slowly turns down a side street. It’s school holidays and the town is pumping!

We regroup right on the outskirts of Margaret River at The Hairy Marron.  Here, in a shady spot on the banks of Margaret River, you can grab a coffee and some food, hire a bike, get local info about trail conditions, and anything else you’d expect from a fully functioning bike shop. Given that it is still raining, we drive to the Wooditjup trails rather than take the trails along the side of the river out to the trail head. It’s a good fun little ride out on the creek trails, undulating with a rock or two here and there, and a few blind corners that you always want to go into hot but know there could be someone coming the other way. Do you push your luck? It makes it a little more exciting. I sneak glances across the road as I drive, hoping to catch a glimpse of the trail and maybe a rider on it.

 

Where is Wooditjup?

Wooditjup Trails? I hear you say. Built under the name Compartment 10, the trails and the National Park they are in were renamed to Wooditjup in recognition of the traditional Wardandi owners of the region. At the trail head we meet trail builders JD and Brendon from Magic Dirt Trailworx, Damian Barton the president of Margaret River Off Road Cycling Association (MRORCA) along with a crew of locals including, Gus, Tony and his boys Oliver and Reeve, Steve Lane of On Track Mountain Biking and Di from Margaret River Mountain Bike Tours. Introductions made and a plan as to what we are riding is made. Damian tells us about the network and MRORCA’s role in fundraising for trail maintenance and construction. Then we hit the trails. First up, Line Manager.  

It’s been a while since I’ve ridden Margs and Line Manager hasn’t been the trail I’d usually make an effort to ride. I love how green and lush this part of the forest is, but I usually ride other trails. Hooking into the first couple turns, there is something different. The dirt is damp and grippy, and the radius of the berms feels right. Although I’m not hitting all the down ramps cleanly, I feel more comfortable than I have previously. Perhaps it’s the Trek Fuel Ex test bike. Perhaps it’s six days straight of riding trails. Perhaps the maintenance Magic Dirt Trailworx has just done to the trail. More likely than not, it’s a blend of all three and I’m not complaining. It is inspiring to watch Gus, Oliver and Reeve rip through the berms, manual rollers and throw shapes on the step ups and step downs along the trail. These kids can ride. We climb High Horse back to the top; the gradient is just right to get us there with minimal effort. It being a short loop, I can see myself lapping this loop more often in the future.

If you have ridden the Pines in the past you will probably remember trails like Lilly Trail, Aunt Lou, The End, Mr Nice and others. With harvesting nearly complete, the Pines and these trails are no more. In their place we have a new series of trails; Black Pearl, Pineoccio, Gullivers and Angry Dolphin, among others. We ride Pineoccio a couple times, and it has a similar feel to the old trails; wide, with good flow out of the bermed corners into the rollers and tabletops. Without the pines and the needles they drop, there is a little more slip and the trail surface is a little more on the gravelly side. This change in soil type is consistent through the clear-cut sections of the Pines, but with the lack of pines, we gain a greater visibility of the upcoming trail making it easier to read first run through. The new pines are growing fast though, it won’t be long, and visibility will be reduced again.

As we get to the end of the ride, we head across to the western side of the Pines to ride Gullivers and Angry Dolphin. It is nice to be back in the forest where the trails are narrower. I grin as we speed down a ribbon of loam. The locals know what they are doing, saving some of their best trails for last.

Our ride done, we head to Margaret River Brew House for lunch. The food is tasty, and the beverages post ride encourage conversation. We sit outside in the sun and talk about the trails we’ve ridden over the last six days and how much progression there has been in the last couple years. Our road trip is over but there are plenty more trails you can ride in the Margaret River Region. The MRORCA website has everything you need to work out what to ride.

 

What to expect: Wooditjup and the Pines are a compact network of well built and maintained flow trails, you’ll find everyone from families on holidays to local shredders, all out having a blast. 

Where to stay: Being a well-established tourist hot spot, Margaret River has a diverse array of options for accommodation. Just don’t leave it too late if you are wanting to book anything during the school holidays or the week of the Cape to Cape.

Best coffee: There are plenty of great places for coffee in Margaret River, but to get both an awesome coffee and an update of the local trail conditions you must go to The Hairy Marron – Mountain Bike Café.

Best place for a meal: Margaret River Bakery for the perfect pre-ride breakfast or pastries. 

Don’t miss: Gracetown, the bay for swimming, the General Store’s cakes, and Huzza’s break to learn to surf.

 

AMB’s must ride trails: 

Angry Dolphin: A fun little green trail, in the Wooditjup trail network, with a rock feature or two to spice things up. 

Big Pine: The OG in the Wooditjup network. Have you even ridden Margs if you haven’t ridden Big Pine? 

Thanks for coming!

Nearly all the trails we rode are on DBCA estate. The number and variety of trails that has been built in the last couple years is impressive, and there are more coming. Travelling with Rod Annear, I get a greater view of what he and the organisation he works for does for the sport we are so passionate about. He’s a passionate cyclist and his knowledge made him the perfect tour guide. Everywhere we stop he knows people, knows the history of the towns, has some quirky fact or story to tell, knows what has been developed and what is to come. Thanks Rod and DBCA what you are providing for us.

Whilst my old beat-up car has its charms, any form of media connectivity is not one of them. Fortunately, Isuzu Australia lent us a new MUX for the road trip, and amongst its many charms, CarPlay was probably first among them.  It provided plenty of space, Brett and I were able to load our gear without the feeling that we had just passed an advanced level of Tetris on completion. Driving such a large car, I definitely appreciated the reversing camera, nearly as much as the CarPlay. Sorry, not sorry, for the music Brett. Also perfect for the trip was the generously sized fuel tank, with lots of driving it was nice not having to think about when and where we would fill up. Cheers Isuzu!

And with bikes along (obviously) thanks to Thule for the use of a Thule VeloSpace XT 3 for the trip. Damien, the local rep, went above and beyond to get one to us in time so we weren’t left short. I’m particularly glad as this meant we didn’t have to shove muddy bikes into the back of the very new Isuzu. A car wash I can handle but to detail the inside of a loan vehicle because we filled it with mud, no fun.

Also, thanks to everyone that came riding with us. Taking time from your work to show us around your trails and towns is greatly appreciated. 

With the road trip done, it is time to think back over the places we visited and what we experienced. There has been a lot of work on trails done for us. Trails upgraded, new trails built, whole new locations and trails styles opened up for mountain bikers. Is it worth it? Everyone will have their own opinion on certain trails; their own favourites, their own also-rans. The best way for you to make up your mind is to get out there, plan your own road trip. Go and visit the towns, ride the trails and get a feel for it. Never before have we had so much to go and ride. A lasting memory from this trip is one of Gerran, from Common Ground Trails. On completion of each run, he looks back at the media guys and asks the question “Again?” 

I had a ball, I’m keen for again. Who’s coming?