Mountain biking the Queen Charlotte Track

New Zealand has got the mountain bike community talking. Aussies are making the pilgrimage in big numbers to experience what all the fuss is about.

And for very good reason.

Here, you’ll find some of the most scenic and varied mountain biking in the southern hemisphere. In our humble opinion at AMB, the trails of New Zealand rival those found in larger, better-known areas in North America and Europe. Not only that, but New Zealand is super convenient. Depending on where you are in Australia, you’re probably only going to be in the air for three or four hours—just enough time to catch a couple of episodes of Game of Thrones and a cheeky forty-five minute snooze—and then within another couple of hours you’re ready to unzip that bike bag and spray some mud up your back. When you take into consideration the fact that the climate is generally pretty close to that of Australia, and New Zealanders (for the most part) speak the same language, making the decision to come ride here is basically a no-brainer.

See, New Zealand is just overt here on the horizon!(c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

There is no better time than now, too, because the New Zealand Tourism Board recently got together and colluded to make life even easier for us (that’s just how they roll) by mapping out and listing their 23 Great Rides around the country. Since they went to the trouble to document the beauty and accessibility of both the north and south islands, we figured it would be really rude if we didn’t rock up and check out some of those rides. This issue, we explore the iconic Queen Charlotte Track in the stunning Marlborough region.

There’s no smoke and mirrors following one of the 23 Great Rides. (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

A TRAIL FIT FOR A QUEEN

The 23 Great Rides are a real mix of experiences. Some are narrow, unkempt, rough-and-ready singletrack, while others are purpose-made full-on bike trails. The terrain is so varied and contrasting that it will leave your head spinning. We mountain bikers truly are spoiled for choice. Although many of us head further south chasing trails, there’s an absolute treasure trove waiting to be uncovered in the south island’s northern reaches and it would be a shame to overlook them. Pack your swimmers and a sense of adventure!

The Queen Charlotte Track can be ridden out and back, but a ferry trip with dolphins to the start is good too. (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

(c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

CRUISING THE MARLBOROUGH SOUND

Arriving into the south island via ferry, you’re really hit by the natural beauty of the area. From the Queen Charlotte Sound rises the lush and striking ridgelines that are home of the aptly named Queen Charlotte Track.

Picton is your best base for the Queen Charlotte Track. (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

From humble beginnings, the Queen Charlotte Track was formed organically. Beginning life as a series of unconnected bridal and walking tracks local landowners recognised the need for a more managed system, and set about joining them all together. After years of development a single walk-able track was opened for the public to use in early 1983.

Fast-forward 30+ years and the track has established itself as one of New Zealand’s top 23 great rides, with walkers and mountain bikers from all over New Zealand and around the world enjoy the 70 km of the Queen Charlotte Track.

CHARGING ON THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

The track officially starts at Ship Cove, which is accessible by water taxi, running back in a westerly direction back to Anakiwa some 70km away. The QCT is an honest day in the saddle for fitter riders, or a multi-day adventure for those looking to absorb all the area has to offer.

(c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

(c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

With multiple access and egress points, the length can be tailored to suit time and fitness levels. Both camping and lodging options are available, too. With so many variations, it’s worth a call to the friendly guides at Wilderness Guides based out of Picton, who can tailor an itinerary to your needs in order for you to get the most out of your QCT experience.

Grab a guide! We took Ollie from Wilderness Guides. (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

CAMP BAY TO TOREA SADDLE

Rolling into Wilderness Guides in Picton, we were warmly greeted by our to-be guide, Ollie, for our QCT experience. Getting the low-down on the track and conditions, we initially discussed options for the following day.

With a full afternoon available for us to get to our lodging in Punga Cove Resort, we decided to take the extended scenic option with Beachcomber Cruises. The captain weaved us into the nooks and crannies of the local Sounds, dropping off mail to the locals, and showing off the best fishing spots. Along the way, he pointed out many historical landmarks and introduced us to his mate the giant Blue Groper, all whilst regaling his tales of the high seas. Toward the end of our cruise, we were joined by an inquisitive, playful pod of dolphins that frolicked in our wake all the way to our destination at Punga Cove Resort in Camp Bay.

(c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

Punga Cove Resort is a veritable oasis on the Queen Charlotte Track—its siren song of cold beer, hot coffee, and delicious food is a beacon to tired riders and walkers who have earned the odd naughty snack. No wonder this is one of the main pit stops along the way. Add the allure of a spa that overlooks the bay and it is the perfect spot to relax after a long day on the trail.

Even in winter the sound is nice for a dip. (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

Next morning, the glorious sunrise over the sound signalled it was time for our three-man wolf pack to finally hit the trail. There were numerous options open to us, so with Ollie, our fearless guide, leading AMB pro photographer Tim Bardsley-Smith and myself, we started the lung-warming climb to Kenepuru Saddle and onto the QCT proper.

Rolling out! (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

(c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

The track was wide, benched and clearly signposted, which allowed us to sit back, enjoy the views and tick through the kilometres. Water was available at many established points (treatment recommended), with a good number of facilities along the way. As the day progressed, the mild cloud covering that hung around in the early morning burned off, and by the time we gained the ridgeline the sun was blazing. There were plenty of amazing lunch spots complete with tables & shelter for us to take the odd break—with winter nearly behind us, these picnic areas were very convenient for taking a break and lounge like lizards out in the warm, clear weather.

(c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

Having Ollie on the team was a real bonus, and the guy was certainly no slouch. Having completed the entire trail in three and a half hours himself, he really knew what he was doing. He was a gun at shaping our QCT experience specifically to our requirements, changing plans at the drop of a hat and doing so safely. It felt like having an extra mate along for the adventure—the mark of a truly exceptional guide. He really provided a seamless package to us as riders.

(c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

Behind the scenes, he organised luggage transfers and water taxis, all of which went off like clockwork. While on the track he provided insight to the types of people that visited the area. He pointed out various locations while we were pedalling where tougher sections of the track could be avoided and you could ride the road around the bay if your skill level was more novice than expert. These road portions apparently involve less climbing and are much easier, especially if it’s been raining and the track is wet.

There’s a fair bit of climbing on the QCT. but there’s always the down hill too. (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

Short pinches were rewarded with stunning views over both the Sounds region, with fast, fun descents with sweeping turns, poppy rises, and speedy roller coaster dips making the entire trail a joy to ride. The variety of landscapes is something to behold. From raw, exposed rocky outcrops overlooking pristine beaches to deep, lush rainforests, then majestic beech forest carpeted in seas of red leaves, there are few words to truly convey the changeable beautiful of the place.

The trail surface holds up pretty well in the wet. (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

(c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

(c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

Our descent into Torea saddle made for an amazing end to our day. A great section of track for beginner and advanced riders alike, the trail enjoys a gradient that allows the rider to roll and take in the view, or pedal hard and chase mates through some seriously fast corners.

(c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

Being so versatile, the QCT metaphorically and literally covers a lot of ground. From single-day, end-to-end smash-fest, to three-day lodge-based expeditions, you really can choose your own adventure. And no matter whether you’re a trail-hardened endurance rider or a parent with kids, this trail has something very special to offer you.

All in all, an epic day that I would gladly revisit again and again.

Sights back to the sounds… (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

YOUR ADVENTURE, YOUR WAY.

One of the best aspects of the Queen Charlotte Track is its flexibility; you could do the whole route in a day or multi-day adventure or pick a section or two—it’s entirely up to you. Wilderness Guides have a variety of package options and can tailor it to suit your needs. Whether you’re looking for something lodge-based or camping, single or multi-day, independent or guided, guaranteed there’s a suitable option available to you.

wildernessguidesnz.com

Boat in, ride out, ride in, boat out… there are so many options. (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

WHAT TO TAKE

• A standard mountain bike will do the trick for this trail. You can bring your own or alternatively hire one from Wilderness Guides. That way, you can always play things by ear and pick up a bike as and when your trip allows, should you be initially planning a non-MTB holiday.

• For those that way inclined, a cyclocross bike would make the cut, too, though the steeper descents would be far more enjoyable on a fatter tyred bike.

• A backpack with the ability to take enough food, water & spares/tools for the day’s riding, and don’t forget to take wet weather gear.

  (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith

WHEN TO GO

Touted as having the best weather of all of NZ, you do have the option to ride this trail throughout the winter months with the right preparation. Pack warmer clothes, preventative wet weather gear and a sense of adventure, and enjoy the solitude of the trail.

Shoulder seasons would be the pick, though. With longer days and warmer weather, you can take advantage with a post ride swim! Tackling this trail over the summer months is the least preferred option, since the first section of track is closed for bikes from the start of December to the end of February, and its increased popularity amongst walkers through these warmer months.

HOW TO GET THERE

Air New Zealand travel to Picton via Auckland with a direct flight into Marlborough airport. A shuttle service into Picton town centre is 25 min.

Ferry services operate several services daily between Wellington and Picton. Check out interislander.co.nz for more details.

From Christchurch, it’s a specular four-hour drive up the east coast, or alternatively a there is a train service that runs the same route.

SECTIONS OF THE QCT

There are three major segments of the trail. As a whole the trail is graded between a New Zealand Grade 3 and 4. Less experienced riders may prefer to avoid the ridge-top sections of the central part of the track by riding along Kenepuru Road between Kenepuru Saddle and Portage.

Ship Cove to Camp Bay*- 26.5km (6 hours)

Camp Bay to Torea Saddle- 23km (5 hours)

Torea Bay to Anakiwa- 20.5km (4 hours)

(c) Tim Bardsley-Smith